Sewing thread is the main thread material, used to sew all kinds of clothing materials, and has dual functions of practicality and decoration. The quality of sewing thread not only affects sewing efficiency and processing cost, but also affects the appearance quality of finished garments.
Classification and characteristics of sewing thread
According to the raw materials, sewing threads for clothing are usually divided into three categories: natural fiber sewing thread, synthetic fiber sewing thread and mixed sewing thread.
1. Natural fiber sewing thread
a. Cotton sewing thread: Sewing thread made from cotton fiber through refining, sizing, waxing and other processes. Cotton sewing thread can be divided into no light (or soft line), silk light and wax light.
Cotton sewing thread has high strength and good heat resistance, suitable for high-speed sewing and durable pressing. It is mainly used for sewing cotton fabrics, leather and high-temperature ironing clothes. The disadvantage is poor elasticity and wear resistance.
b. Silk thread: filament thread or silk thread made of natural silk, with excellent luster, its strength, elasticity and wear resistance are better than cotton thread, suitable for sewing all kinds of silk clothing, high-grade woolen clothing, fur and leather clothing, etc.
2. Synthetic fiber sewing thread
a. Polyester sewing thread: This is the most used and popular sewing thread at present, made of polyester filament or staple fiber. Polyester sewing thread has the characteristics of high strength, good elasticity, wear resistance, low shrinkage and good chemical stability. It is mainly used for the sewing of denim, sportswear, leather products, wool and military uniforms. It should be noted here that polyester suture has a low melting point and is easy to melt during high-speed sewing, blocking the needle eye and causing the suture to break, so it is necessary to choose a suitable needle.
b. Nylon sewing thread: Nylon sewing thread is made of pure nylon multifilament, which is divided into three types: filament thread, short fiber thread and elastic deformation thread. At present, the main variety is nylon filament thread. It has the advantages of large elongation and good elasticity, and its tensile length at the moment of breaking is three times higher than that of cotton threads of the same specification, so it is suitable for sewing chemical fiber, woolen, leather and elastic clothing. The biggest advantage of nylon sewing thread is its transparency. Because this thread is transparent and has good color properties, it reduces the difficulty of sewing and wiring, and has a broad development prospect. However, it is limited to the fact that the rigidity of the transparent thread on the market is too high, the strength is too low, the stitches are easy to float on the surface of the fabric, and it is not resistant to high temperature, so the sewing speed cannot be too high. At present, this type of thread is mainly used for decals, cutting edges and other parts that are not easily stressed.
c. Vinylon sewing thread: It is made of vinylon fiber, which has high strength and stable stitches. It is mainly used for sewing thick canvas, furniture cloth, labor insurance products, etc.
d. Acrylic sewing thread: made of acrylic fiber, mainly used as decorative thread and embroidery thread, the yarn twist is low and the dyeing is bright.
3. Mixed sewing thread
a. Polyester/cotton sewing thread: It is blended with 65% polyester and 35% cotton, which has the advantages of both polyester and cotton. Polyester/cotton sewing thread can not only meet the requirements of strength, wear resistance and shrinkage rate, but also overcome the defect of polyester not being heat-resistant.
b. Core-spun sewing thread: Sewing thread made of filament as the core and covered with natural fibers. The strength of the core-spun sewing thread depends on the core thread, and the wear resistance and heat resistance depend on the outer yarn. Therefore, core-spun sewing thread is suitable for high-speed sewing and garments that require high sewing firmness.
The principles that should be followed when using sewing thread well
The comprehensive index for evaluating the quality of sewing thread is sewability.
Sewingability refers to the ability of a sewing thread to smoothly form a good stitch under specified conditions and maintain certain mechanical properties in the stitch. While ensuring sewability, the sewing thread also needs to be applied correctly. To do this, the following principles should be followed:
(1) Compatibility with fabric characteristics
The raw materials of sewing thread and fabric are the same or similar to ensure the uniformity of shrinkage rate, heat resistance, abrasion resistance, durability, etc., and avoid the appearance shrinkage caused by the difference between the thread and the fabric.
(2) Consistent with the type of clothing
For special-purpose clothing, special-purpose sewing thread should be considered, such as elastic sewing thread for elastic clothing and heat-resistant, flame-retardant and waterproof sewing thread for fire-fighting clothing.
(3) Coordinate with stitch shape
The stitches used in different parts of the garment are different, and the sewing thread should also be changed accordingly. For example, bulky thread or deformed thread should be used for overlock seam. The double stitch should choose a thread with large extensibility, and the crotch seam and shoulder seam should be firm. , while the button eyeliner needs to be wear-resistant
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